What are the top skincare ingredients and how do they work?
By Miranda Aitken, for The Canberra Times.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs): GENTLE EXFOLIATORS
What are AHAs and how do they work?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, commonly known as AHAs, are a group of water-soluble acids derived from fruits, milk and sugar.
They are widely used in skincare for their exfoliating properties. The most well-known AHAs include glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), citric acid (from citrus fruits), and malic acid (from apples).
AHAs work by gentle exfoliating the skin's surface (stratum corneum), breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, and promoting their shedding.
This process reveals fresher, smoother, and more evenly toned skin underneath. Regular use can also even out skin tone by reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
Certain AHAs, particularly lactic acid, have hydrating properties that help to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making them ideal for dry skin types.
AHAs can also stimulate the production of collagen, a protein that helps keep the skin firm and elastic. This can lead to a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles over time.
Benefits
AHAs are popular for their exfoliating and skin smoothing properties. Some of the benefits of AHAs include:
- Exfoliation: AHAs are excellent exfoliators that remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin.
- Improved skin texture: Regular use of AHAs can reduce rough skin and make it feel more smooth and supple.
- Even skin tone: AHAs help to reduce the signs of hyperpigmentation and dark spots, leading to a more even tone over time.
- Hydration: Some AHAs, particularly lactic acid (derived from milk) contains moisturising properties that can help the skin stay hydrated.
- Reduction of fine lines and wrinkles: AHAs stimulate collagen production, which can help give the skin a plumper appearance and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.
Risks
For some people with sensitive skin, AHAs can be irritating and drying. They also leave the skin sensitive to sunlight. Consider these risks associated with AHAs:
- Skin irritation: AHAs, especially in higher concentrations, can cause irritation, redness, and a stinging sensation, especially for those with sensitive skin or when first introduced into a routine.
- Increased sun sensitivity: Because AHAs can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, it also increases the risk of sunburn and UV damage. It's crucial to use sunscreen daily when using AHAs to protect the skin from harmful UV rays.
- Dryness and flaking: Overuse or using a concentration that's too strong can lead to excessive dryness and flaking as the skin adjusts to the exfoliation.
- Risk of over-exfoliation: Using AHAs too frequently or in combination with other exfoliating ingredients (like retinol or physical scrubs) can lead to over-exfoliation. This can compromise the skin's barrier, leading to irritation, redness and potential breakouts.
How to use AHAs
Begin by cleansing your face with a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser. This will remove dirt, oil and makeup, ensuring your skin is clean and ready to absorb the AHA product.
Make sure to patch test the product before applying it to your entire face. Apply a small amount to a discreet area like behind your ear or your jawline to see how your skin reacts. Wait 24 hours to check for any irritation or adverse reaction.
Give your skin time to absorb the ingredients before following up with another product. Use moisturiser to help hydrate your skin and lock in moisture.
If you apply AHAs in the morning, it is crucial to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen as AHAs can increase skin sensitivity to the sun.
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Daisy Thompson
Daisy holds a Bachelor's degree in Communications and Media (Marketing) and brings her passion for beauty, health, and wellness to the Edible Beauty team. With a lifelong interest in natural skin remedies, Daisy has personally experimented with solutions for skin conditions such as eczema and hormonal imbalances, fostering a strong belief in the efficacy of botanical actives. As a competitive bodybuilder, she is dedicated to enhancing her health and vitality through natural methods, supporting her vibrant and healthy lifestyle.
